Travel guide

Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness

The Highlands of Scotland contain some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. A timeless wonderland, where roads and railways cut through breathtaking mountain views, past the deep and mysterious lochs, through the world’s finest whisky-producing regions, and up to the highest peaks in Britain. The long and dramatic Loch Ness, a short journey from Inverness, with its mythical monster, affectionately known as ‘Nessie’, has attracted thousands over the past century, all eager to catch a glimpse. The region is rich in heritage, and has played host to many bloody battles between the proud and ancient Scottish clans. Off the coast, the Hebrides, Orkney and Shetland Islands with their rugged and dramatic scenery reveal ancient settlements and unspoilt insights into the ancient history of Scotland. A visit to this highland wilderness, despite predictably unpredictable weather, ignites a very basic pleasure and can be a glorious and refreshing experience.

Loch Ness is situated in the Great Glen that links Inverness on the East coast to Fort William in the West. The most famous lake is 24 miles (39km) long, half a mile (1km) wide and 700ft (213m) deep and is home to the legendary monster which many claim to have glimpsed from the shore. There are fine walks around the mountains and glens that surround the loch and many head for the scenic ruins of Urquhart Castle or the Nessie exhibition at Drumnadrochit. The four lochs that make up the Great Glen are linked by the Caledonian Canal, which was built in the early 1800s to enable ships to pass from the North Sea to the Atlantic without having to navigate Scotland's harsh North coast. The most traditional and comfortable way to travel along the glen is by boat, and a flotilla of canoes, yachts and cruising boats are available for hire in Inverness and Fort William. The more energetic may opt to walk or cycle along the 70-mile (113km) Great Glen Way. The walk will take four to seven days.

Beyond Inverness and the Great Glen, Scotland stretches away in a spectacular fusion of wooded glens, sweeping moors, rugged coasts, towering mountains and welcoming villages. The Northern Highlands includes both the rich farmland of the Black Isle and the precipitous sea cliffs of Cape Wrath; the traditional crofting communities of North West Sutherland and the busy towns of Easter Ross; the historic fishing villages of Caithness and the wooded straths of Mid Ross; and the popular beaches of East Sutherland and the majestic, beautiful mountains of Wester Ross. Due to its remoteness this huge area is largely overlooked by tourists despite having one of the most dramatic landscapes in Europe.

The West Highland Railway runs around 100 miles (161km) from Glasgow to Fort William, and then along the West coast through the remnants of the Caledonian forest, Loch Lomond, Glencoe and some of Britain's most spectacular mountain scenery and finest walking country. Passengers can get off at Highland stations and set off on wonderful walks direct from the platform. For a hiker this railway is an absolute gift and for any visitor wanting to explore the Highlands in comfort, a ride on the West Highland Railway is a must. There are three passenger trains running in each direction every day. Walkers should make sure they book accommodation well in advance and remember to bring rainwear and anti-midge cream.

No visit to Scotland is complete without a visit to one of the many Highland Games that take place between June and September each year. The first Highland Games were held more than a thousand years ago, prompted by clan chiefs and kings. Events covered a variety of sporting, martial and religious purposes. The Clan Chiefs used the games to recruit people - race winners made good messengers at a time when there were no proper roads. The strongest men were employed as bodyguards, and the pick of the dancers and pipers were also chosen - both to entertain and to reflect well on the clan. Men of the villages and parishes gathered annually on what was, for many, their only holiday to test their strength and ability against each other using the 'tools' of their trades. Hence throwing hammers, putting rounded stones, heaving weights and tossing tree trunks (tossing the caber) became the order of the day. Playing bagpipes and dancing were both incorporated into proceedings to give warriors heart for battles or to celebrate victories. Today all the same events take place, but it is all for entertainment and visitors are welcome to join in many of the competitions. Most towns in the Highlands hold their own games, some are larger than others, but all have the same friendly village fete atmosphere and are entertaining for adults and children alike.


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