Cuzco |
A vibrant and exciting city, it is one of South America’s biggest tourist destinations with a thriving traditional culture, ancient ruins, archaeological treasures, and magnificent colonial architecture. Chief among its attractions are the Inca Trail (culminating at the magnificent hidden city of Machu Picchu), the villages and archaeological ruins in the nearby Sacred Valley, and the Inca fortress of Sacsayhuamán overlooking the imperial city.
Despite its popularity, Cuzco remains relatively unspoiled and its beautiful setting in the Andean mountains, at an altitude of 11,000ft (3,400m), is guaranteed to leave visitors breathless. Cobbled streets run steeply up the hills and are lined with quaint whitewashed houses, steps are bordered by craft stalls watched over by traditionally dressed indigenous women, and elevated church bell towers offer fantastic views over the red-tiled roofs.
The heart of the city is the stately Plaza de Armas, dominated by the Cathedral and framed by colonial arcades and wooden balconies that house souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and tour agencies. Flying over the Spanish colonial structures around the plaza is the Peruvian national flag together with the rainbow coloured flag of the Inca Empire, emphasizing the unique blend of the ancient, colonial and modern day Peru that characterises the spectacular city of Cuzco.
Attractions
Coricancha Inca Ruins
Coricancha is a Quechua word meaning 'Golden Courtyard', but the Inca stonework is all that remains of the ancient Temple of the Sun, which was the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. The walls and floors were once covered in sheets of solid gold, and the courtyard was filled with golden statues. Spanish reports tell of its opulence that was 'fabulous beyond belief'. The Church of Santo Domingo was built on the site, using the ruined foundations of the temple that was flattened by the gold-hungry Spanish in the 17th century, and is a fine example of where Inca stonework has been incorporated into the structure of a colonial building. Major earthquakes have severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone, still stand as a testimony to their superb architectural skills and sophisticated stone masonry. Nearby is an underground archaeological site museum containing a number of interesting pieces, including mummies, textiles and sacred idols.
Opening time: Daily 9am to 5.30pm; Admission: The site is part of the Cuzco Tourist Card that allows entry to all Inca sites around the city and museums; full ticket S/. 70 partial ticket S/. 40 The temple requires a separate ticket of S/. 6
Plaza de Armas
The graceful main square, Plaza de Armas, is lined with colonial-style covered walkways and houses that contain souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and travel agencies. The large Cathedral is the most prominent structure overlooking the square and is adjoined to a church on either side, the Iglesia Jesus María and Iglesia El Triunfo. Inside is the elaborately carved wooden altar, covered in gold and silver plate, and the carved wooden choir stalls that are acclaimed to be the finest in the country. Also of interest is the painting The Last Supper, which portrays Jesus and his disciples gathered around the table, on which a central platter of the local Inca delicacy, 'cuy' or roasted guinea pig, is placed. Also on the plaza is La Compañía, one of Cuzco's most ornately decorated churches, often floodlit at night. The streets and alleys around the plaza are filled with colour and bustling handicraft stalls. The historic pedestrian alleyway of Loreto, leading away from the plaza, is lined with Inca stone walls.
Opening time: Cathedral: Monday to Saturday 10am to 11.30pm and 2pm to 5.30pm, Sunday 2pm to 5pm; Admission: Cathedral: S/.13
Sacsayhuamán
Of the four ruins near Cuzco, Sacsayhuamán is the closest and the most remarkable. Its proximity to Cuzco and the dimensions of its stones caused it to be used as a quarry by the Spanish conquistadors, providing building material for their colonial buildings in the city below. The complex suffered such destruction by the Spanish conquistadors that little is known about the actual purpose these magnificent buildings served, but it is usually referred to as a fortress, constructed with high, impenetrable walls, although it is also believed to have been a ceremonial or religious centre. The ruins cover an enormous area, but only about 20 percent of the original complex remains and are a fine example of extraordinary Inca stone masonry. It is estimated the complex took 100 years to build, using thousands of men in its construction, the massive blocks of stone fitting together perfectly without the aid of mortar, one weighing over 300 tonnes and standing 16ft (5m) tall. The magnificent centre was the site of the infamous bloody battle between the Spanish and the Inca people in 1536 that left thousands of the native people dead, providing food for the circling condors, and ever since the Cuzco Coat of Arms has featured eight condors in memory of the event. Today it holds the annual celebrations of Cuzco's most important festival, Inti Raymi, the sun festival, a spectacular and colourful affair that re-enacts the Inca winter solstice festival every June.
Transport: A steep 40 minute (2km) walk up from the Plaza de Armas; Opening time: Open daily from 7am to 5.30pm; Admission: The site is part of the Cuzco Tourist Card that allows entry to all Inca sites around the city and museums; full ticket S/. 70, partial ticket S/. 40
Excursions