Travel guide

Beach bar, Mediterranean coast

For decades, between 1920 and the late 1950's, Tangier was a playground for adventure seekers and the rich and famous, attracting all those seeking a tax haven or a mystic destination, from authors to artists and spies to aristocrats. Regular visitors included the likes of Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams, and Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton. When Spain relinquished Tangier back to Morocco in 1960 its duty-free status went with it, and the city lost a great deal of its flair. Tourism is slowly increasing once more, though; visitors succumbing to the city's proximity to Europe are discovering that its decayed grandeur still has much to offer, from its palm-treed promenade and sandy beach to the old town section, and the outlying villages and resorts. Seasoned Moroccan visitors, however, warn that it is best not to take on Tangier until you are acclimatised to the rest of the country, and to be vigilant as regards safety after dark. Despite it's fall from glory, a stylish café society has once again begun to build up in modern day Tangier's boulevards, and the merchants in the medina (old city) are doing good trade with tourists exploring the maze of narrow streets, all within sight of the Spanish coast across the straits of Gibraltar. An essential part of a visit to Tangier is to promenade along the beach, which extends along a curve for several kilometres.

A collection of art from all over Morocco is housed in the imposing Dar el Makhzen, the former Sultan's palace dating from the 17th century, which dominates the Tangier kasbah. The art collections are sited in the prince's apartments, which are breathtaking with their frescoed ceilings, sculptured plasterwork and intricate mosaics. The art on display has been assembled from all regions of Morocco, and includes firearms decorated with marquetry; pottery; carpets from Rabat; silks; and bound manuscripts from Fez. The Dar el Makhzen palace is home, too, to a fascinating museum of antiquities relating to Morocco's pre-history, gathered from sites such as Lixus, Cotta and Volubilis. The museum includes a life-sized model of a Carthaginian tomb, and a reproduction of an ancient necropolis, which is sited in a peaceful Andalusian garden.

Address: Place de la Kasbah; Telephone: (0)9 93 20 97; Admission: 10 dirhams

Tangier boasts many beautiful palatial residences of varying styles and variety in its Marshan villa district, about 15 minutes walk from the medina. One of the most attractive of these is on the Rue Muhammed Tazi, and used to belong to United States multi-millionaire media magnate, Malcolm Forbes. The house is open to the public and contains Forbes’ collection of miniature soldiers, about 8,000 of them!

Address: Palais Mendoub, rue Shakespeare; Telephone: (0)9 93 36 06; Opening time: Daily from 10am to 5pm

The word 'socco' is the Spanish version of 'souk', or market, which has stuck to this square in the heart of Tangier because of its Spanish heritage. The square is, however, no longer a marketplace, but rather a city crossroads and huge taxi rank, fronted by cafes, outside the walled in, old part of the city. The Grand Socco has developed something of a reputation for being a meeting place for criminals and drug dealers, but it is still an interesting spot to spend time watching the passing parade and the Rif women in colourful traditional costume touting vegetables and fresh mint. It is also the jumping off point for entry to the medina, and for admiring the luxurious Mendoubia Gardens on the north side, and the mosaic-studded minaret of the Sidi Bou Abid Mosque to the west.

Tangier’s 17th century fortified residential quarter, or Kasbah, is a place of arcades, winding alleys and hidden terraces, where it is possible to wander among the wealthy homes and sometimes manage a peep behind the unprepossessing facades, enjoying views of the medina and the bay. The Kasbah mosque features an interesting octagonal minaret, and stands in the mechovar (parade ground). Visitors are welcomed at the Sultan’s Gardens in the Rue Riad Sultan to the north of the mechovar, where they can watch local craftsmen at work and sit awhile on the terrace of the Moorish café Le Detroit. On a clear day it is possible to see the Spanish city of Tarifa about 18 miles (30km) away.

In the midst of the old medina in Tangier, America has provided a thriving cultural centre, museum, conference venue and library in the only historic landmark of the United States that is located abroad. The American Legation Museum is housed in the American Embassy, established in Tangier back in 1777 when Morocco became the first power that recognised the United States of America as an independent country. The museum houses art collections and restored rooms. Guided tours are offered.

Address: 8 Zankat America; Telephone: (039) 93 53 17; Website: www.legation.org; Opening time: Monday to Friday 10am to 1pm and 3pm to 5pm; Admission: Free


Feedback \| Contact Word Travels \| Travel Reviews

Travel Guide powered by Word Travels, copyright © 2008 Globe Media Ltd. All rights reserved. By its very nature much of the information in this travel guide is subject to change at short notice and travellers are urged to verify information on which they're relying with the relevant authorities. Neither Globe Media nor Educational Directories Unlimited can accept any responsibility for any loss or inconvenience to any person as a result of information contained above.