Agra |
For many, Agra represents the best and worst of India. The city is a daunting sensory experience for even the most hardened traveller; the streets are foul, the air polluted and, particularly in the alleyways around the Taj Mahal, you will come across the most persistent touts and rip-off merchants in the East. Despite this, its magnificent sights alone make a visit to India worthwhile.
Agra, along with Delhi and Jaipur, forms the 'Golden Triangle', India's favourite tourist route. Situated just 125 miles (200km) south of Delhi, it makes an easy day trip by train. However it is worth spending at least a night here just to truly appreciate the wondrous Taj Mahal and its many moods; at dawn the mausoleum changes from grey to pink to brilliant-white.
Attractions
Agra Fort
Not far from the gardens of the Taj Mahal stands the important 16th century Mughal monument known as the Red Fort of Agra. This powerful fortress of red sandstone encompasses, within its 1.5 mile-long (2.5km) enclosure walls, the imperial city of the Mughal rulers. It comprises many fairytale palaces such as the Jahangir Palace and the Khas Mahal, built by Shah Jahan; audience halls such as the Diwan-i-Khas; and Sheesh Mahal (The Glass Palace), which, inlaid with thousands of mirrors was once the harem dressing room. There are also two beautiful mosques including Shah Jahan’s Pearl Mosque (sadly currently out-of-bounds). The Octagonal Tower is an exquisitely carved tower where Shah Jahan spent the last seven years of his life. The tower was considered to provide one of the best views of the Taj but today the pollution has reduced the visibility. The tower, and much of the Agra Fort, is in bad shape but blank spaces and the empty inlay works give an idea of how this building must have looked in its prime.
Address: Agra, Uttar Pradesh; Opening time: Open from 6am to 5.30pm every day except Monday; Admission: Rs. 520
Fatehpur Sikri
The deserted city Fatehpur Sikri was the capital of the Mughal Empire between 1570 and 1585. It was built under the personal supervision of the Emperor Akbar; he was childless and, having tried all sorts of solutions to his plight, visited a Sufi saint, Sheikh Salim Chishti, for help. Soon a son was born and, impressed and overjoyed, he started building on the site where he had met the saint. However due to a severe shortage of water the city was abandoned after only fifteen years and the capital was relocated back to Agra. As a result Fatehpur Sikri stands untouched and perfectly preserved; a complete medieval fortress of red sandstone, with vast central squares, exquisitely carved multi-tiered pavilions, cool terraces and formal gardens. Fatehpur Sikri is a 25 mile (40km) journey west of Agra, on the way to Jaipur.
Transport: There are 3 daily trains that connect Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, and vice versa. The first train leaves Agra Fort at 8.10am, the next at 2pm and the last at 7pm. The journey takes an hour. Refer to www.indianrail.gov.in
Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal is one of the world's most recognisable and evocative sights and a visit here does not disappoint. Set overlooking the River Yamuna, visible from Agra Fort in the West, the Taj was built by Shah Jahan to enshrine the body of his favourite wife who died giving birth to her 14th child, in 1631. This story of this great monument to love is given an added poignancy by the fate of Shah Jahan himself. When his devout and austere son Aurangzeb seized power, Shah Jahan was interned in Agra Fort where he lived out his final years gazing wistfully at the Taj Mahal in the distance. When he died there in January 1666, with his daughter Jahanara Begum at his side, his body was carried across the river to lie alongside his beloved wife in his peerless tomb. Completed in 1653, the Taj Mahal is set in a large walled garden, between two mini-Tajs (one of which is a mosque), in front of a long reflective pond. Close up the craftsmanship is as spectacular as at a distance; the inside of the vast double-dome is inlaid with verses from the Koran and semi-precious stones. Visitors should aim to visit it at dawn and dusk when the reflection of the sun changes the colour of the dome from white to shades of pink. Note that there can often be smog and fog in the mornings.
Telephone: (0562) 233 0496; Opening time: Tuesday to Sunday dawn to dusk (about 6am to 7.30pm); Admission: Rs. 500